We didn’t plan to move to Belgrade. Then we met Ivan in Belogradchik during our Sofia stay, and he fed us so much delicious food and told us so much about his homeland that a few weeks later we were on a flight to Serbia. Three months later we understood exactly what he was talking about.
Belgrade is not a polished city. That’s the point. It’s raw, honest, layered, and one of the most underrated capitals in Europe. Also home to the best croissants we’ve had anywhere. That surprised us too.
Finding a long-stay apartment in Belgrade’s Stari Grad
We stayed in Stari Grad, the historic old town district on the edge of Kalemegdan Fortress where the Sava meets the Danube. Hosted by Viktor and Violeta at Bel Rent Belgrade. Central. Walkable. Right in the middle of everything.
Belgrade apartments are a specific kind of value. Renovated communist-era buildings with real character. Big windows, high ceilings, honest kitchens. Nothing pretending to be something it’s not.
Living in Belgrade’s Stari Grad
Stari Grad is Belgrade’s historic heart. Kalemegdan Fortress on one side, the Sava and Danube rivers wrapping around, and Knez Mihailova (the pedestrian shopping street) running through the middle. Cafés on every block. Serbians take their coffee seriously and take their time drinking it.
We spent whole afternoons at fortress cafés drinking cider and watching the two rivers meet. Locals would sit down at our table, offer us a cigarette (which we didn’t smoke, and they still couldn’t quite believe), and end up sharing their homemade rakija with us. Serbians are direct, warm, and generous once you get past the initial gruff exterior. Just like Ivan told us.
A typical day in Belgrade
Coffee at a corner kafana. Then a proper Belgrade breakfast: burek or the best croissant of your life (Serbians make these better than most Parisians we know, and yes, we’re prepared to defend that). Long walks through Kalemegdan, along the rivers, or up into Dorćol. Ćevapi for lunch at a spot with no menu.
Afternoons at Skadarlija, the bohemian street where traditional restaurants line the cobblestones and live music starts at sunset. Long dinners with too much rakija (a Serbian brandy that goes down easier than it should) and conversations with strangers who became friends by the second glass.
Weekends we hit the country. Novi Sad for its own city vibe. Wineries in Fruška Gora. And a return trip to see Ivan in Belogradchik because you don’t just stop visiting people who fed you like that.
Belgrade: our verdict after 3 months of living there
Belgrade rewards people who look past the surface. It won’t charm you in a weekend. It probably won’t charm you in a week. Give it a month and you start to feel the pulse. Three months in and we didn’t want to leave.
For long-stay value in Europe, Belgrade is genuinely undervalued. Prices are still low. The food is exceptional. The people are as warm as any we met in Europe. And the coffee culture alone is worth the visit.
Belgrade long-stay stats
- Duration: Three months, spring into early summer
- Neighborhood: Stari Grad (Old Town)
- Cost tier: Very affordable
- Walkability: Excellent
- Wifi: Fast and reliable
- Cat-friendly: Yes
- Best for: Long stays, budget-conscious remote workers, café obsessives, rakija enthusiasts
- Would return: Absolutely
Book the stay: Our Stari Grad apartment on Airbnb →
