Israel: Float in the Dead Sea

You’re not allowed to leave Israel without a visit to the Dead Sea. It’s not a law, but it might as well be.

Passport control should ask every visitor that question as they arrive. “How long is your stay? Are you carrying any fruits or vegetables? Have you arranged to visit the Dead Sea yet?” It’s practically required. There was no way we were leaving Israel without taking a dip in one of the world’s most famous bodies of water.

We booked two nights at a hotel in Jerusalem and spent the first day exploring the city. The next day, we rented a car and drove east into the desert. The Dead Sea is 1,388 feet, or 423 meters, below sea level making it Earth’s lowest elevation on land. It’s also saltier than the margaritas at your favorite Mexican restaurant. The percentage of salt is about 34%, which is ten times higher than that of the ocean.

The Dead Sea is neither dead nor a sea.

It’s technically a lake. There is no fish in it, but the salty water teems with bacteria and microbial fungi. The mud is known worldwide for improving skin, rheumatic pains, and relaxing muscles.

We visited Masada first thinking that the Dead Sea would be a refreshing conclusion to a hot and dusty day.

Masada has a fascinating history but its ancient ruins are surrounded by desert. So, it seemed logical to save the swimming for afterward.

We arrived in the early afternoon at the section of the Dead Sea that is loaded with resorts. Acting as if we were honored guests of one of the hotels, we strolled onto the salt-lined beach and prepared ourselves for a much-needed swim. Barefooted, we stepped into the water and quickly realized two things. The first was that the water was very warm and was not going to have that cooling-off effect we had hoped for. The second was realized a split second later, after the first few steps.

The floor of the Dead Sea is hardened, crusted, solidified salt that feels almost exactly like walking on Legos. Oh, the PAIN!

It took me a couple of seconds longer to realize how sharp the “sea” floor was, but Mimi was frozen. Performing my chivalric duty, I turned around and grabbed her flip-flops. After she was properly shielded from the painful bottom we walked out into the water. We walked until the water was deep enough to allow us to just sit in the water and relax. Well, kind of relax.

The salt helps you find every cut on your body.

It burned like crazy. I mean reeeeeeally bad! Pro tip: Don’t shave for at least three days before getting into the Dead Sea. Grow your beard. Deal with having hairy legs. Whatever it is that you normally shave, it’s just not worth it. If you’ve ever heard the expression, “pouring salt onto the wound,” it’s as bad as the expression implies. Maybe worse. You’re completely immersing yourself in salt. The expression is true, and to say it burned might be an understatement.

No life vests are required.

You float so easily in the Dead Sea, it seems like it would be impossible to sink. It can be very relaxing to float because it takes no effort whatsoever to stay floating. It took a real effort to sink below the waterline and it was an effort that I instantly regretted. In hindsight, it seems obvious. When the saltwater from your head flows down onto your face as gravity intended, it gets into your eyes. Water that salty only has one effect on your eyes and it’s to make them burn like you’ve been pepper sprayed. Don’t try to wipe your eyes with your hands either because they’re salty too. The only thing you can do is to close your eyes as tightly as you can and wait until the water had drained from your face completely. Please, learn from my mistake. You can thank me later.

After effortlessly floating for a while and enjoying the peace of the still water, we decided it was time to hit the road. It was time to get back to Jerusalem.

We were a little surprised at how the saltwater leaves what feels like a slimy coating over your skin. It’s not a gross slimy feeling though. It’s almost like you’ve been dipped in olive oil. There are showers all along the edge of the water, graciously provided by the essential resorts. If you try to dry off with a towel first, it doesn’t remove the salt from your skin and this causes your skin to dry out very quickly. That’s when things get itchy. Always rinse off as thoroughly as you can before toweling off. Unless you like being itchy. I’m not here to judge, weirdo.

Even though it wasn’t what we expected, we have no regrets. It was a little painful at first but still a very worthwhile experience. Once you stop resisting your instinct to swim, and just allow yourself to float, it can be amazing. The Dead Sea forces you to relax. Resistance is futile.